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Many years ago someone told me the bottom button of a suit coat or blazer was called the “dork button,” because if you button it you’re a dork.

I’ve since learned that like most sartorial dictates, this one can be ignored if you know how to pull it off. If you can’t pull it off…well, playing it safe with the buttons may not make you less of a dork, but at least other people are less likely to notice your condition.

Here’s Coat Buttons 101, in handy visual form

(This guide covers two button and three button single breasted coats.

The shoe & sock matching thing presents an interesting dilemma for a lot of guys. Here’s a little guide to acceptable shoe/sock/pant combinations in a typical business setting.

Shoe & pant (or suit) combinations

Black shoes

Black shoes can be worn with pretty much any color pants or suit. (From this point forward, just assume that when I refer to pants of a certain color, the same applies to suits of that color as well.)

Brown shoes

Brown shoes are popular with navy pants. Personally I find that combination a bit pedestrian, but I guess there’s nothing wrong with it.

The business casual trend has caused much angst in recent years, largely because there’s no set standard. Business formal has clearly defined components: suit, shirt, tie. As long as these elements are in place, all that remains is a little matching here and there. Pretty easy, right? (No? Find other posts under Basic Business Wardrobe…)

Business casual adds several new dimensions to this dilemma. Some of the many things to consider:

• What industry do you work in?
• What is your job function (i.e.

Remember the Friends episode about Chandler and Joey becoming “bracelet buddies”? It should be required viewing for every man, lest he feel tempted to express his individuality with anything too shiny or dangly. For those of you who haven’t seen it I won’t spoil the fun, but here are a few suggestions on the dos and don’ts of wearing jewelry.

Actors, artists, musicians, professional athletes, punks and mafiosos (mafiosi?) can feel free to ignore this advice. The rest of you should take heed.

In general, less is more with men’s jewelry. Keep it simple, both in style and material.

It’s been said that clothes make the man, and that shoes make an outfit. Need I say more about the importance of good shoes? Here’s some advice on buying dress shoes for your business wardrobe.

First three pairs, in recommended order of purchase:

1. Black cap-toe oxford
2. Black plain-toe oxford, with a non-slip bottom if you prefer (but it shouldn’t look like it has a non-slip bottom!)
3. Dark brown oxford (cap-toe, plain, wingtip/brogue — whatever you like)

Shoe buying tips

• Invest in high-quality dress shoes, preferably with Goodyear-welted soles. Without getting into technical details, this means the shoes can be properly resoled, and therefore worn for decades if well cared for.

Neckties are perhaps the most difficult part of a business wardrobe on which to offer advice, but I’ve managed to put together a general guide.

The basics

• Silk is the fabric of choice, although seasonal blends of silk and linen or silk and wool can be very nice. If you’re not sure, stick with the basic silk necktie.
• Quality neckties typically have patterns that are woven into the fabric rather than smooth fabrics with printed patterns (printed ties from the likes of Hermès being a notable exception).
• Look for ties with a little bit of heft, but that are also somewhat soft to the touch and aren’t too stiff.

Business shirts should be 100% cotton. Poplin, twill and end-on-end are nice fabrics; pinpoint is acceptable, but less formal.

Go for a moderate spread collar for at least the first few shirts, and then possibly some collars with a wider spread as you build your collection.

Recommended order of purchase

1. Light blue solid
2. White solid (real white, not off-white — see below under "common mistakes")
3. Medium blue solid or small, subtle blue check
4. Another light blue or white solid
5. Solid pink - yes, pink! Those with pale skin should get one in a slightly darker hue
6. Whichever of the medium blue solid or small blue check you didn’t get from #3
7. Blue hairline stripe or subtle herringbone (narrowly spaced, so it appears solid from afar
8. Whatever strikes your fancy!

ZZ Top got it right. Every girl’s crazy ’bout a sharp dressed man, and nothing is sharper than a well-fitting, well-constructed, properly coordinated suit. Unfortunately, the art of wearing a suit has seen a decline in recent years. I’m doing my part to revive it with the tips below.

When first venturing into suit-land, stick with single-breasted, notch lapel, two or three button. Suit jackets should have either a single center vent, or double side vents for a more European look. If you don’t know what any of these terms mean, explanations are coming soon in the Dapperpedia.

The basic business suit wardrobe, in recommended order of purchase

1. Solid charcoal gray
2. Solid navy blue
3. Charcoal gray pinstripe
4. Navy pinstrip or medium gray (in either solid or pinstripe)

Notes

• Some would say the first suit should be navy.